To increase the number of rare varieties of roses in their flowerbeds flower growers use cuttings. This is the best way for beginners, it is more reliable than grafting or reproduction by layering.
Not all rose seedlings take root equally well. This article presents methods for successfully rooting at home. They are affordable, simple and suitable not only for bush flowers, but also for gifts presented in cut form.
The choice of roses for cuttings
To get a high rooting percentage, the choice of planting material must be correct. Not all varieties take root equally well.
The easiest to adapt when grafting:
- Climbing, especially those with small flowers.
- Polyanthus and hybrid-polyanthus perfectly reproduce with green shoots in the summer, and partially stiffened in the autumn.
- Ground covers.
- Miniature root easily even with water.
- Floribunda varieties take root in half the cases.
Complicated are:
- park;
- large flowering tubular;
- scrubs;
- most tea hybrid.
Successful cuttings also depend on the color of the flower. The most suitable are burgundy, red, in second place pink and white. The most difficult to root yellow, they have the lowest survival rate of planting material and they are more likely than others to die from infections.
Harvesting cuttings
Shank should be medium in thickness and development. A 2-3-year-old with a large middle adapts for a long time and can begin to rot when moving into open ground. Young, usually red, are also discarded due to slow rooting. They do not have time to fully develop before the cold and freeze in winter.
Usually there are 3 options suitable for propagating cuttings:
- Stem - the most common material for planting.
- Lignified - annuals with a diameter of 0.4-0.5 cm that are quite matured and stuck in growth. These usually root in the spring.
- Semi-lignified - cuttings are carried out in the summer, the central part of the shoot is used.
If there are single varieties or bushes on the plot, you can try to cut the shoots with one bud. But it should be remembered that weak plants that are not prepared for wintering can grow from them. The best option is 2-3 internodes, and for yellow roses it is better to leave 4 or more.
Here are the basic steps for preparing the cuttings:
- The length of the shoot is at least 10-18 cm.
- The upper cut is even, made at a right angle, departing from the sheet to a height of 0.5-2 cm.
- From below, the same distance from the kidney is measured, but you need to cut it off at an angle of 45 degrees with a sharp sanitized knife.
- Remove spikes and lower leaf plates. Top trim half length. This will help maintain moisture inside the seedling.
Cooked cuttings must be put in water, in which you can add drugs for rooting, for example, Hetrauxin. For the same purpose, a honey solution is used: 1 tbsp. take 1 tsp. honey and some chopped rose leaves. The fluid needs to be changed every 2 days and for 15-20 days, a light seal will appear on the lower cut - callus.
Further, the seedling can be planted on a flower bed or wait for the appearance of long roots.
The disadvantage of this method is the lack of oxygen for proper development in the aquatic environment and, as a consequence, decay.
In regions with cold winters, bushes grown using cuttings survive frosts in a dry basement with good ventilation, dug in a slope in the sand. The optimum storage temperature is + 1 ... +3 ° C and humidity 65-70%. For the next season, young bushes remain for the winter in the open ground.
The timing of the cuttings of roses
The period of cuttings depends on the climatic zone, as well as the variety of roses and the characteristics of the formation of its shoots. In the warm season, the procurement of planting material and its rooting can be done twice. This is the middle of spring: in April-May in greenhouses. A prerequisite for certain imported roses, which are first grown in greenhouses, and then grown in open ground.
The best time for breeding is in the middle of summer: the end of June - the beginning of July, when the shoots are just starting to stiffen. Usually this is the period before flowering, when the buds get paint. The cuttings used later have a lower rooting percentage.
Often after the autumn haircut, there are parts of the bushes that are pitifully thrown away and flower growers try to save them for the subsequent spring planting. To prevent freezing of most of the shoots you need:
- Remove all sheet plates and spikes.
- Seal sections with paraffin to prevent early germination.
- Store cuttings in a cool place: basement, cellar or in the lower compartment of the refrigerator.
Cutting roses in the summer
Carrying cuttings in summer shoots is easier than in autumn. They have enough time to adapt to their chosen flowerbed and prepare for wintering. Cuttings taken at a later date tolerate frost worse. The optimal time for cutting is June, and landing can be done until the end of July.
Cuttings are harvested in the manner described above, and they can be planted directly in the open ground, without using greenhouses or hotbeds. However, you must select a site without strong wind and bright sun.
The best option would be diffused light penetrating the flowerbed through the crowns of trees. The earth should be loose and pass moisture well.
The cuttings are deepened into the ground at an angle, dug. For the first time, a greenhouse made of plastic containers was needed from above; glass jars are also used. If a significant number of roses are planted, then a small greenhouse is made of wooden supports and polyethylene. The seedlings do not require special care, only timely watering is needed.
In winter, young plants are covered with jars or a hotbed, which can be removed only in the next season - in the spring.
Cuttings of roses in spring
For spring grafting, it is necessary to make a greenhouse with pre-prepared soil: from turf and leaf soil, sand, ash and vermiculite in the proportion: 2: 2: 1: 0.5: 0.5. The length of the cut part of the plant: 10-15 cm.
When planting, it is necessary to powder the lower cut of the seedling with a growth stimulator and deepen it into the ground by 7-10 cm. If you dig deeper, it will slow down the formation of the root system. Sprouts should be at a distance of 7-8 cm from each other.
The most important period is 15-20 days after planting. At this time, it is necessary to provide the cuttings with the conditions for development:
- Watering moderate, excess fluid will lead to decay.
- High humidity 80-90%. Sheet plates should be covered with droplets of water, for this you can use a spray bottle.
- Protection from direct sunlight. At high temperatures, and hot air, ventilation is necessary in the morning and in the evening.
- A thorough examination for the first signs of disease or decay.
After the root system appears, the rose can be transplanted into another container of small size 9-12 cm. To improve drainage properties, the top layer of the substrate with a height of 3-3.5 cm should be sand.
Unusual methods of growing roses from cuttings
Different methods are used for rooting. Here are the most successful ones:
- in water;
- using potatoes;
- Trannoy method;
- burrito;
- in a plastic bag.
Planting cuttings of roses in potatoes
The most popular way to root rose shoots is in potatoes. In a selected sunny area, protected from drafts, dig a hole 15 cm deep. To preserve moisture in the soil, its bottom should be filled by a third with a layer of washed sand. Peel the young tubers from their eyes and insert the cuttings prepared in advance 20 cm into the holes made. Put the potatoes in the ground at a distance of 15 cm from each other and cover the ground with 2/3. For the first 3-4 days, plants must be covered with glass jars.
The advantage of this method is that the lower cut is constantly in a moistened state and thanks to the potato the rose receives nutrition and starch.
The main thing is not to forget about systematic watering and moisten the soil every 5 days with sweet water: 200 ml 2 tsp. Sahara. After 14-15 days, begin hardening, and briefly remove the shelter. After another 2 weeks, the cans can be removed completely.
Rooting cuttings in a package
The effect of nebula and high humidity is easily achieved in another way, using the package. It is necessary to put sphagnum moss, previously moistened in diluted aloe juice, in a ratio of 1: 9 or a disinfected substrate. Then inflate the polyethylene, tie it and hang it on the window. The appearance of roots will occur in 30-31 days. After the cuttings you need to get and plant in pots.
Burrito Method
This method is actively used by flower growers in the United States and is becoming popular in Russia. This method is often used to root purchased roses. However, not everyone considers it effective.
The selection of cuttings comes with spring pruning, and many shoots that are usually sent to the garbage can become beautiful rose bushes in the future. Their main difference from other selected planting material is thickness, they should not be thin. A pencil or finger can become a reference point, the length should be at least 15-20 cm. It is important to reject all parts of the plant with defects or darkening in the early stages of preparation. This is a sign of mold and one affected stalk can infect everyone else.
The lower section of the prepared shoots is sprinkled with Kornevin or treated with Epin, and wrapped in a moistened newspaper and put in a bag. Instead of paper, you can use fabric. They are placed in a cool place with a temperature of + 15 ... +18 ° C for 2 weeks, during which small roots should form.
Once every 7 days, the bundle must be opened and viewed for the presence of fungus or blackened seedlings, which are also removed. When drying, the paper can be slightly moistened. After the formation of callus, roses are moved to the flower bed for further growth and adaptation.
Trannoy Way
This method consists in selecting cuttings after the main flowering wave. Experts suggest choosing shoots of plants with fading roses and two leaf plates and cut off the middle part with swollen buds, until leaves appear from them. The main thing is not to miss this moment. Cutting length not less than 20 cm. All greens need to be cut off, leaving only a couple in the upper part.
Plant at once on the selected site several pieces in a pit at 45 degrees. On top of each group you need to put a 5-liter plastic jar, with a cut off neck. This is a reliable protection for planting material to the very frosts, despite the appearance of leaves, and new shoots. To supply the roots with oxygen, the earth around the plantings must be loosened. It is important not to forget about watering.
Mr. Summer resident recommends: rooting roses from a bouquet
Most often, the main problem when cutting flowers from bouquets is the infection in the soil or on the stem itself. Therefore, it is important to follow the recommendations responsibly, use a sharp disinfected knife or secateurs, and use special medications for plants.
The rose chosen for rooting must be fresh, with a uniformly green stem without darkening, the skin without damage and cracks. At the beginning of the work, you need to prepare the plant: cut off the flower and leaf plates that are no longer needed.
Make a liquid for soaking. Pour 1.5 tbsp into the container. water and pour one packet of Fitosporin and Kornevin. The first will protect the plant from bacterial infections, the second will help form the root system. For well-rooted roses, the dose can be reduced. Place the stalk cut at an angle in the solution and keep for at least 1.5-2.5 hours.
Prepare a pot of soil, purchase a special substrate in the store, dial in the place of the garden where this rose is planned to be placed. In the ground, make a recess for the handle and put a Gliocladin tablet before digging. This natural antibiotic will eliminate infections that may be in the soil. Deepen the shoot, leaving two buds at the top, pour with the solution remaining from steeping the cuttings. From above, you can cover with a cropped plastic bottle, slightly deepening it into the ground.
Every day, the greenhouse from the pot must be removed for 1 hour to ventilate the seedling. Repeat this daily procedure until the rose gives root. It is easy to find out by the leaves appearing in the sinuses. You need to keep the container on the balcony or loggia, thus preparing it for moving to the garden. It is better to transfer to a permanent place together with an earthen lump from a pot. The only difference between the seedling and the rest: it will need double shelter for the winter.
Growing and propagating roses is an interesting and exciting process, thanks to the variety of ways an experienced flower grower or a beginner will find a suitable option for themselves. Accuracy and correct implementation of the instructions of each method will allow you to root almost any rose you like and plant it on a flower bed.
